A. Sister by Sibling
A few elements of Sister by Sibling's SS15 presentation played a bit twee: the taped over nipples, the oversized bows, but Sister doesn't care: that's kind of the whole point. In contrast with their dramatic take on menswear, Sister by Sibling has an established predilection for the fun, the flirty, and the unapologetically girly. The three designers behind the line will list "sunshine" as a primary inspiration point for a collection, but then Beyoncé and Debbie Harry rock it, and you realize the strength and power of this kind of vision. Lush and feminine, their vision for Spring played with globular bustle shapes, contemporary takes on liberty prints, and loads of bare midriff. Check out the photo diary, here.
B. Faustine Steinmetz
Faustine Steinmetz's deeply talented and slightly winking SS15 presentation played with old and new, building layered looks comprised of shredded denim that looked like it had done about 1,000 wash cycles, with retail security tags clipped on like accessories. Contrasting that symbol of new merchandise with the extremes of decay and use raised powerful questions about the role of an emerging designer (Steinmetz is a recent graduate of Central St. Martin's) in the commercial landscape of fashion. Our favorite look, an oversized shirt and pants in an ethereal lavender blue, set those questions aside, instead allowing us to revel in the memory of those crinkly shirts that got bigger when you put them on that were really big in the '90s. See the details, here.
C. Christopher Kane
Christopher Kane's SS15 had a kind of heavily structured, regimented romance to it. Romantic in the way a chastity belt is romantic. Primarily focused on ballooning silk shapes, Kane found whimsy in small explosions of chiffon and nautical rope detailing. One black dress, in particular, exemplifies the Kane woman: she plays at love but she plays hard and smart and she never loses. See the full collection, here.
D. Nasir Mazhar
For SS15 Nasir Mazhar's aesthetic underwent a marked shift. Still literally recognizable (the emblazoned waistbands don't hurt), the collection departed the stark black, white, red, yellow palette Mazhar has previously planted his flag in to explore softer, silkier directions. Our favorite look matched the neo-geisha black striped lip and plaited hair with a crop top and asymmetrical skirt combination that blurs the line between streetwear, sportswear, and sports bras. Clean silhouettes in solid colors are harnessed by brighter layers, in a strong, erotic showing. See Dazed's photo diary, here.
E. Mary Katrantzou
Mary Katrantzou's loose-haired models stalked the runway like the futuristic version of the unknown woman in a skirt suit stepping into Philip Marlowe's office for the first time. If Katharine Hepburn had been born in 3030, she would have prowled around in this futuristic pared down pantsuit, demure but lethal in its floating asymmetry. Something about the collection's icy blues, its dense sequin work, its sleight of hand panelling takes it out of this world, into a future I can't wait to live in. Somehow sexual and subdued yet utterly wild--we love Mary. See 7 backstage moments, here.